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I'd been planning this trip for several weeks, missing the previous public holiday with a cold and bad weather so when with the upcoming RIKEN founders day approaching and good weather for at least Saturday and Sunday this weekend looked like the last chance of the year to head for the high mountains before the snow arrives. Yes, the RIKEN foundation day - many companies in Japan will have an extra holiday for their own foundation, some days its good to work for RIKEN.
Steve was keen to cycle the Venus line, and my route to Nagano which was originally planned for the Monday but it made sense to switch days as rain was forecast to move in Sunday afternoon and linger around on Monday.
So we boarded the first Super Azusa from Shinjuku (boarding at Tachikawa) for Chino in Nagano. Theres not much space on these trains for bikes, it was a real squeeze, especially when these early trains are full of hikers with many backpacks.
We passed Lake Shirakaba, a nice spot which has been spoiled to some degree by the sprawling roller coaster and other funfair rides. All lakes in Japan have swan shaped boats, but here I think we found the mother of all swan boats, out of the water for repairs.
The road from here has the unfortunate name Kurumayama - Car Mountain! Besides the name, it was one of the most spectacular sections of the road, we decided to stop at the high point just above 1800m for some soba and a good chance to photograph the panoramic views.
Several more descents at high speed, more climbs before we approached the final climb of the day up to Utsukushigahara highlands. We knew the climb was approaching, but we were descending further and further, it really was one of those times that you didnt want the road to go down any further, as this would just increase the distance and pain of the final climb! It was a stunning sight when it came into view, it really looked more like Alpe d'huez with the number of hairpin bends than the long rolling climbs we had done so far this day. Again, the clear skies and 紅葉(red leaves) took our minds off the pain of the ascent.
At the top, a restaurant is at the southern end of Utsukushigahara highland. To the north is a hotel situated at the highest point, and in between is a stone track. Earlier in the year Mike and Ludwig had cycled this track to connect across the highland, so we took their advice that the path is rideable. In truth it was OK, but I wouldnt recommend it for road bikes. It doesnt get much better after the hotel either, perhaps worse as you're going downhill, and only at the visitors center do you pick up full sealed road again. You'd be better off descending the 464, but then you'd miss the views, the famous cows on the pasture(?) and the chance to descend the full length of route 62, which really was fast and exciting. But sure was cold!We originally intended to find a small mountain road which would keep us at altitude and climb over the top of the the 254 tunnel, the main east-west road beneath us. Its marked on the map, but its clear that many of these small roads were never maintained and we didnt even notice the start of our intended route, it must have been completely overgrown. Worth noting that other small tracks, which appear as 'white' roads on the normal road maps are just stone tracks, suitable for 4 wheel drive or mountain bike only. Would be very nice to explore this area on mountain bike another day for sure.
Missing the intended route was a blessing in disguise, as we descended from over 2000m which was now feeling very cold and the daylight was fading. Windbreakers, long gloves did the job, but my shorts felt cold on this descent! Still, the temperature rose as we descended. Through one long toll tunnel (¥20 for bikes!) and after that we could smell burning bundles of rice stems, the remains of the harvest, as we rolled towards Bessho Onsen.
We stayed at the very nice Maharoba youth hostel, mainly because all the hotels were full, but this proved to be a very nice location and comfortable accommodation. Internet, washing machines, good breakfast but you will need at least 2 of their futons - seemed to be made of concrete. Also, when was the last time you had starched sheets?After all that cycling, we relaxed in O-yu, then had some good food at a recommend izakaya, and looked forward to another big day in the mountains.
Day 2 Bessho Onsen to Nagano 130km
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After breakfast we rolled down the road towards Ueda city. Early Sunday morning, but why do Japanese drivers take so much offence at cyclist riding 2 abreast? Its not just the odd driver, all of them sound their horns as soon as you do this, but then they'll still overtake on a bend into oncoming traffic.
After reading Ludwig and Mikes painful description of the tortuous climb of Jizu toge beyond Ueda, we decided to go with the lesser of two evils, the 144 which ended up being a 22km climb up to 1362m, but this still saved us nearly 400m of ascent. A lovely descent followed all the way to Manza Kawaguchi. Wide roads, low gradient and no need for brakes - the speed was high and perfect riding conditions.
The road from Manza Kawaguchi is an excellent route for cyclists, but when it joins the main road to Kusatsu onsen (292) we were amidst the coaches and heavy tourist traffic for the first time this weekend. The only redeeming feature of this road is the section of musical speed bumps! As vehicles pass over the bumps, the ripple noise creates a short tune. It really works, I guess you'd notice it even more if you're in a car.
The climb of Kusatsu is one of the favourite events for Tokyo Cycling Club and one of the first hill climbs of the year. Must be much nicer on the day of the race, as today I noticed the large amount of traffic up the twisting road. Still, its nice and wide and no real problem. You certainly smell the sulphurous gases on sections of this climb, is this worse than car fumes?
After the summit, we turned left on the 466 to pass through Manza onsen. A check of the map here saved us heading back to where we had come from, and instead climbed higher to a long undulating ridge. After Manza Onsen, you lose the traffic as they either head north or south. Virtually zero cars head to Nagano from this point. For undulating, read up and down 150m or so each time! After 11 or so km, we were still above 1900m, and we could see the clouds changing shape, becoming heavier and threatening rain, so keen to start the massive descent down to Nagano city.
I slept much better on the concrete-like futons this night!
Day 3 Bessho Onsen to Matsumoto 54km
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I discovered the connecting route from day 1, the route which would have taken us from Utsukushigahara highland - it was another stone track. We'd still have been on the mountain if we'd insisted on finding the planned route!
The 181 started off as a promising climb. Wide, quite well maintained but this proved to be only low down the slopes within the mountain villages. As I ascended, the road gradually disintegrated, the moss became greener and thicker and several streams of debris covered the road. All totally rideable, but certainly the east side is for climbing, I wouldnt have felt safe descending this side.
This climb really reminded me of Otoge near Otsuki, as its buried in forest with no views and is seemingly endless. Also, I was heading up into the clouds. It proved to be that the blue skies of the Ueda valley did not stretch to Matsumoto, where the clouds remained low and the roads wet.
At Matsumoto castle, I registered my first 5000km on the NeroRC - not a bad tally for weekend rides since March!
In all, the Venus line is tremendous and perhaps with the Norikura skyline road the most impressive roads I've been on in Japan so far. We were very lucky to have such good weather for Saturday the views were amazing on a day like that.
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